Canvas napkin under h. A simple napkin with embroidery, stitch first, needle first. Hems and openwork zigzags - completion

This napkin with needle stitch embroidery can be made with children aged 7-9 years. The work is not difficult, but it looks very impressive. It may be difficult to count the threads for an even seam forward with the needle, but even if the children make a mistake, it will not be critical. Along the seam forward, the needle is wrapped around a “zigzag” with additional thread; it will perfectly hide small flaws in the original seam. The napkin can be done with children at school during a labor lesson in grades 1-3.
The needle forward stitch is one of the simplest decorative stitches. It is performed from right to left.
For the napkin you will need material with a clear weave of threads, floss threads in 2 matching colors (you can use wool threads), needle, scissors, ruler.

1. From the base material, cut a square to the size of the future napkin, taking into account the fringe. Leave 1.5 cm on each edge for the fringe. Try to cut a square along the threads of the main fabric. The sample shows a square of material 20x20cm.
2. Mark where the decorative broaches and fringe will be on the napkins. Using a ruler, measure the same distance from the edge of the napkin. And we pull out the threads from the base fabric: for the decorative seam we pull out one thread, for the fringe - 2-3 threads (5-6 threads if you sew the edge of the fringe). It is convenient to pick up threads from the warp using a needle. Our broaches are located 2.5 cm from the fringe.

3. We stitch the decorative strip with the needle forward. To do this, take floss in 6 folds. We start sewing from the beginning of the future fringe, we do not fasten the thread, but only leave a long tip. When sewing, try to make stitches of the same length; this is convenient for counting the threads of the fabric. The stitch width can be any - it will still turn out beautiful. Our napkin is stitched on two opposite sides in different colors. Threads in different directions of the material can be of different thicknesses; it is better to take this into account so that the stitches are approximately the same length in all directions. For our napkin, the seam forward was sewn with a needle through 8 threads horizontally and 6 vertically. Make sure that children do not pull the seam forward with the needle.

4. Along the completed line, stitch the needle forward. You can see different variants seam forward with a needle with a leno and choose any one. Twist with additional thread (floss in 6 folds). We leave the end of the leno thread in the same way as with the main stitch.

5. To process the edge, pull out the outer threads on a napkin to the markings made at the beginning of work.

Children 10-12 years old can process the edge of the napkin in a different way. To do this (in step 2), we pull out 5-6 threads to mark the fringe.
We sew the edge of floss in 1-2 folds with thread in the color of the material. We take 4-8 threads of the base fabric and stitch it as shown in the figure. When we stitch the edge of the fringe, we also grab the floss threads from the seam forward to the needle and wrapping.

Then we pull out the edge threads of the main fabric. Iron the napkin
You can complicate the napkin: make several decorative stripes with the stitch forward, or embroider some simple design in the center of the napkin.

This is my first time participating in a joint exchange of postcards for March 8th. Everyone wants to please their girlfriends. So I decided not to lag behind.

Somehow I saw a tutorial on decoupage on canvas on the Internet. There the girl then embroidered with ribbons on this canvas.
I wanted to try to make decoupage and then embroider with threads. I picked up a small pattern and went to look for paper napkins.

I took 16-gauge white canvas (I only had thick canvas with small holes), paper napkin, PVA glue, transparent file.
I’ll say right away that the most difficult part of this process was finding paper napkins that fit the idea.

1 I cut the required pieces of napkin and canvas.

2 I diluted PVA glue with water. Dilute the glue in a ratio of 1:1. It is not recommended to use it undiluted, so as not to leave whitish spots on the fabric. For a piece of canvas measuring 14x14 cm I needed a little diluted glue. Approximately 1 tablespoon.
I laid the canvas on the oilcloth. I poured glue onto the canvas and spread it evenly with a brush.

3 The cut piece of napkin needs to be stratified. Mine had 2 layers of paper. Let's take the top, beautiful layer of paper into action. Don't get confused!
You need to take a transparent file

I put a napkin on the file face down and wet it with water. The MK said to spray from a spray bottle. But it was night and I didn’t want to look for this spray gun on the windowsill in the bedroom in the dark. So I did the “peasant” thing: I poured water from a cup onto a napkin. Don't skimp on water. The napkin needs to be thoroughly wet. When a napkin gets wet, it increases in size. You need to carefully straighten it with your fingers. Carefully! It is very thin and breaks easily. Then we take the file by the edge and drain the water. I did all this quickly, fearing that the napkin would get wet or the glue would start to dry out.

4 Next. In MK it was written that a napkin on a file (or a file with a napkin) is carefully placed on the canvas. I did the opposite. My napkin was a little larger than the canvas. That's why I put the canvas on a napkin. Then she carefully turned the cake over. She placed it on an oilcloth and smoothed the file with her fingers, trying to expel air, excess glue and water from under the napkin. The principle of wallpaper gluing. I carefully removed the file and went to bed.

5 In the morning I was visited by horror. My canvas + napkin was bent. The form cannot be expressed in words. The MK video showed that it should be ironed with steam. I decided that I had nothing to lose and went to get an iron. Honestly, I seriously doubted my success. I was afraid that the napkin on the canvas would simply burst. Ironed through fabric with steam. First from the inside, and then from the face. Smoothed out. The canvas has become a little convex. Nothing happened to the napkin itself. I put the canvas under the press for a couple of hours.

6 And then the funniest thing began. Make holes. They must be made by piercing a needle from the front side. I didn’t like how just holes looked, so I also drew cells with the eye of the needle. So it seemed to me that it looked more like a canvas.

I couldn’t resist and decided to increase it. I have never embroidered on perforated special paper. paper. Probably the effect is the same. It turned out to be a hard outline. At first it was unusual, but I quickly adapted. I embroidered with 1 thread, but didn’t dare with 2.

I have already talked about how I periodically take part in handicraft robins for the exchange of decorative napkins for decoupage on the forum of the wonderful website about sewing and handicrafts “Self-Sewing”.

Tools and materials for work:

Plain linen fabric,

Scissors,

Threads to match the fabric

Decorative napkin with Easter motifs,

Glue for decoupage on textiles,

Polyethylene file,

Gold outline for fabric

Before starting work, I wash and iron natural linen fabric. By the way, you don’t have to worry too much about ironing: anyway, the fabric will certainly get wrinkled during the process and will have to be ironed more than once.

I cut out a napkin from fabric, taking into account the size of the decorative motifs that are supposed to be glued on, and an allowance of 4.5 cm for making the fringe.

I have one little secret on how to cut fabric evenly. To do this, you need to pull the thread out of the weave, and then cut the fabric along the formed mark. The edge is perfectly smooth, and the possibility of skewing the finished product is completely eliminated.

By the way, my grandmother taught me how to cut fabric in this way when I was still a child. That’s why I try to teach my children everything that I know myself. I hope that this knowledge will be useful to them someday.

To make the napkin look aesthetically pleasing and last a long time, you first need to process the edges of the fabric. You can simply tuck the edges of the cut piece and then stitch on sewing machine. But I am a big supporter of hand sewing and in addition to this I want to show you the traditional Ukrainian way of processing the edge of a product using an openwork counted hemstitch. The hem will secure the edges of the napkin, decorated with fringe.

My grandmother also taught me how to embroider hems. In my heart I am very proud that I am essentially the keeper of the knowledge and experience of many generations of women in our family. And that’s why I always remember my grandmother, a needlewoman, with a feeling of great gratitude.

Embroidering a hemstitch is not difficult at all. To do this, on each side of the future napkin, I measure 4.5 cm from the edge and pull out 3 threads from the fabric.

Hems are usually embroidered with threads to match the fabric, and sometimes threads drawn from the fabric are used for embroidery. Therefore, I chose ecru-colored threads for my work, which are practically the same color as the unbleached linen fabric for my future Easter napkin.

To embroider hemstitch, I bring the needle and working thread to the front side of the fabric three threads below the area with elongated threads.

On the wrong side, I leave the end of the working thread about 1.5 cm in order to further secure it with subsequent hemstitches. After all, knots on the wrong side of the embroidery are a clear sign of the work of an inexperienced craftswoman, which I do not consider myself to be:).

The number of threads picked up may vary depending on their thickness. In any case, the stitch should be no wider than 3 mm, otherwise the fabric will be pulled.

Then I pull the needle with the working thread behind the picked up threads of the fabric and stick to the right of them. I bring the needle from the wrong side of the napkin to the front side diagonally, while simultaneously securing the end of the working thread left on the wrong side.

I stretch the working thread, tightening the picked up threads of the fabric. I get a “single twig” or “tassel” - the most common basic hemstitch stitch. I make single twigs around the perimeter of the napkin, along the area with threads pulled out of the fabric.

I fasten the second end of the working thread from the wrong side, pulling it through several hemstitches.

At this point, the embroidery is finished, and I begin to decorate the napkin with Easter motifs using the decoupage technique.

I cut out images of traditional Easter bunnies from a decorative napkin. I layer the cut out motifs, separating the top layer with the pattern.

I lay out the napkin on a file (you can use a piece of cellophane or oilcloth) so as not to stain the working surface of the table with glue. I generously lubricate the place where the design is applied with glue for decoupage on textiles. To ensure that the fabric is well saturated with glue, I use a hard bristle brush.

Immediately I apply the napkin motif to the glue-coated area of the fabric. And carefully apply another layer of decoupage glue on top. This requires great delicacy so as not to stretch or tear the thin layer of decorative napkin, so I replace the bristle brush with a brush with soft synthetic bristles.

When all the pictures are pasted, I let them dry a little, after which I decorate the individual elements of the picture with a gold outline for the fabric.

I leave the napkin for 12 hours to allow the glue and outline to absorb into the fabric and dry.

After this time, I iron the napkin from the wrong side with a hot iron in the “cotton” mode for 5 minutes. This will help not only smooth the fabric well, but also securely secure the pasted pattern on it.

And now all I have to do is make the fringe. To do this, I pull out the loose threads along the edges of the napkin.

Having caught me doing this exciting activity, my daughter also decided to take part in making a napkin with Easter motifs. And I was left without work. And while my little assistant was working diligently on making fringe, a wonderful idea came to my mind for a little decoupage lesson for kids. But read about this in the following articles.

And here is the finished Easter napkin, decorated with decoupage and fringe with hemstitching.

Now you know how to use decorative napkins for decoupage with Easter motifs.

Create with HobbyMama!

Any outfit can be decorated in such a way that it acquires individuality and reflects the taste of the owner of the item. A modest blouse, dress, scarf will become more elegant and elegant, a tablecloth, towel, and curtains with hemlines will add uniqueness. How to do this embroidery is shown in the photos given in the article.

Hemstitch

This is a very old and recently fashionable technique. It is made using fabric carefully prepared in a special way. In the place where the embroidery will be located, the transverse threads are removed, the number of which depends on the planned width. After this, the work is performed using one of the types of patterns. This is how the hemstitch is made. Let's look at how to do it further.

It is not difficult to make a hemstitch; it does not require any special devices or materials. But at the same time, this type of needlework requires extreme care and accuracy, otherwise the product with embroidery will look ugly.

This method is most often used when decorating products made from cotton and all kinds of tablecloths, blouses, bed linen, kitchen towels and curtains. Hemstitching will look very impressive on any of these products. How to do it? Will learn.

Types of patterns

The beauty of hemstitching lies in the neatness and method of execution of the pattern. There are several types of it. Here are the simplest ones. All of them are performed using a needle and thread on a prepared area of fabric where the transverse threads have been removed.

Tassels. We pull the needle with the working thread through 3-5 main threads and tighten them with a loop. We perform stitches in the same way until the end of the row.

Columns. These are the same tassels, only they are made on both sides of the fabric. You can stretch an elegant cord between them.
Merezhka is split. Consists of tassels made in a checkerboard pattern.
Goat. It connects the columns, each time the connection point moves, and it looks like a cross.
Flooring. The working thread is pulled into a fairly dense surface, which is similar to satin stitch embroidery.

This is only part of the patterns that make up the hemstitch. How to make them? First you need to practice on a small piece of fabric, and only then you can start embroidering. If you do the work slowly and carefully, you will succeed beautiful pattern, because the hemstitching is done as evenly as possible, and the work turns out even and smooth.

Skilled embroiderers add beads to the patterns, and several more variations are obtained. It is also possible to perform hemstitching with ribbons. This pattern turns out to be voluminous, and if you choose the right color it will look very impressive.

Simple hemstitching

Let's look at how to do hestitching step by step. For beginners, the best way to get acquainted with this type of needlework is to embroider on cotton or linen fabric. It holds its shape well, does not slip, and the threads are clearly visible on it.

Make a cut along the edge of the cotton fabric and use tweezers to pull out several transverse threads. First, we will process the edges so that they do not crumble. Then, using a prepared needle and white thread, we tighten 5-10 threads together with a loop. We fix each loop on the canvas. In this way we pass both edges. Now we cross adjacent bundles in pairs, securing them in the center with an additional thread. This is a very simple way to make hem on fabric. Such simple embroidery will be an elegant element of any item, moreover, the funds used to complete the work are minimal, which saves the budget.

If you choose the right combination of colors of fabric and thread, you can get very beautiful drawing, which will be a prime example of how to make a hemstitch. For beginners in this type of needlework, such embroidery will allow them to master the methods and techniques of work. This pattern can be used to decorate a kitchen towel, a pocket on a blouse, or a pillowcase.

Hemstitch on canvas

Now let’s look at how to make hemstitching on canvas with a “split” pattern.

The canvas is quite loose, so you need to work with it carefully, otherwise the embroidery can be ruined. But at the same time, such a rare weave will help to complete the drawing correctly, especially for a novice needlewoman.

First you need to learn how to pull out the strings. This is done using a blade, with which we cut about six threads. You should not make a wide hem, as the pattern will be lost in this case.

First we go through one edge. It is better to treat it immediately so that it does not bloom further. Then we decorate the second edge in the same way.

When the outline is prepared, we proceed to the drawing. Let's look at how you can make a hemstitch step by step. For beginners, the “split” pattern will not be difficult to perform. On one side of the embroidery we make a tassel of two threads. We carefully go through the seam so that the loops are clearly visible. On the other side, we connect the threads of different columns into one tassel.

You can combine several strips of embroidery made with different patterns, and if you add colored threads, the pattern will turn out bright.

On a napkin

At the next stage of getting to know this type of embroidery, we’ll look at how to make a hem on a napkin.

Along the edge of the napkin, leaving room for a hem, we pull out eight to ten threads from the fabric. Let's go through all the edges in this way. Now let's make the folds. Then you can start embroidering. You should always sew from left to right.

We secure the thread by making several stitches. We collect from 4 to 8 threads on the needle (optional). The needle goes from right to left horizontally. Then we insert the needle from the wrong side and tighten the working thread to form a tassel. In this way, go along the entire length of the napkin. We must remember that the brushes must be of the same thickness, so you must carefully count the number of threads. Also pay attention to the passage of corners so that they are neat.

This work clearly shows how to make a simple hem on a napkin.

This type of needlework can become an exciting hobby. Decorate clothes and interior items - what could be more fun!

Depending on their level of familiarity with this technique, needlewomen can embroider works in a different range: from small, thin embroidery that serves as a decorative element, to complex flat patterns. The same goes for color range: white sewing can be replaced by colorful hemstitching.

The hem can be used to decorate a tablecloth or bed linen, a festive blouse or a ribbon for a hat. In any case, using basic techniques, you can experiment and use different combinations of colors and patterns.

Slow, painstaking work will allow you to relax, and the end result will leave a feeling of satisfaction in your soul.

Finishing the edges of table linen using hemstitching

Hemstitching is a great way to finish an edge without a visible seam.

Yes, it’s labor-intensive, but how beautiful!

We take a cotton fabric with a uniform weave of thread of the desired size + 3 cm for the hem (mine is 40 x 40 cm, 34 x 34 cm in finished form), we process the edge so that it does not fray during the process.

In this master class I will not describe all the possible variety of hemstitch seams. There is a series of excellent master classes on this topic at the Masters Fair.

In this master class I will look at three elements of edge processing using hemstitching:

Actually, the edge itself - how to make it beautiful (for this we will make teeth).

How to make a hem seam invisible (for this we will use openwork zigzags). I'm using one of the simplest stitches to show the principle.

How to make a corner neat (for this we will design it as an envelope).

Here general scheme for pulling threads. With its help it will be easier to navigate in the further description.

But the general order of pulling the threads and making the sheathing is also for reference.

And now a description of the work in parts:

Teeth along the edge of the napkin.

At a distance of 3 cm from the edge, in the center, we pick up and cut one thread; pull it out, leaving 3 cm to the edge on each side. As a result, columns of threads are formed.

On the adjacent side of the napkin we do the same (see point 1)

The intersection forms an angle. Here you need to be careful, there should be tails of thread about 3 - 4 cm.

We bring these tails inside out and fasten them - we draw the tail from the pulled thread under one thread of the fabric.

Steps 1 - 4 will need to be repeated for all sides, but first perform steps 5 - 6 for the first side.

5. We fasten the thread with which we will sew the teeth; I use white DMC cotton floss in two folds (the photo specifically shows a contrasting thread).

6. We move from left to right. We grab 4 columns of threads and fix them by stitching from top to bottom and grabbing 2 threads of fabric.

We repeat, we continue, and in the end we get this:

7. When we reach the side on which the thread is not pulled out, we determine which thread should be pulled out so that the distance from the edge is 3 cm and the number of threads on the current side is a multiple of four.

When we fold the hem, the stitched posts form beautiful teeth.

Openwork zigzags - the beginning

We retreat 1.5 cm inward from the sheathed square and pull out 5 threads.

On the perpendicular side we also pull out 5 threads.

In the corner we bring the threads to the wrong side and fasten.

4. Starting from the formed corner, we sew the columns: 2 threads and then 4 each, finishing with two threads.

I use white floss, 1 thread (the photo specifically shows a contrasting thread).

We continue, we repeat, it turns out like this:

Napkin corner "envelope"

Iron the hem on the wrong side (2 times 1.5 cm each) and unfold it.

2. Fold the napkin with the front side inward.

We sew the seam. The main thing is that it is strictly the required length (see diagram).

We cut off the excess fabric parallel to the seam, retreating 1-2 mm.

4. Turn it inside out, helping yourself with a pencil. The hem itself “asks” to be tucked the way it should.

Hems and openwork zigzags - completion

1. Secure the hem with safety pins and iron it.

2. We fasten the thread on the wrong side, in the corner of the envelope and bring it to the front side.

I use one DMC thread in white (the photo specifically shows the contrast thread).

3. We sew the second side of the zigzag hemstitch, starting from the corner, grabbing 4 columns of threads. When fixing the posts, we grab two threads of fabric, as well as two hem threads.