Diamond color 7. Classification of diamonds by color and clarity: what is it? The most famous types of diamonds

Despite the apparent complexity, the evaluation of diamonds is largely unified. There is a system of price lists that determine the approximate cost of stones. It is customary in the world to describe the characteristics of diamonds, taking into account four characteristics of stones: color (Color), clarity (Clarity), carat weight (Carat) and cut (Cut).

The classification of diamonds based on these characteristics is called "4C".

Diamond color

Although diamonds are mostly colorless, some have shades of pale yellow, yellow, or brown of varying intensity. About absolutely transparent without flaws, they say that they are “pure water”. Such stones, when they do not have any color tint other than bluish, are most highly valued. Diamonds with a slight yellowish tint are called “impure water” stones and are valued much lower.

Canary yellow diamonds have a certain appeal. Greenish stones are also common, although a really good shade of this color is rarely maintained within a whole crystal. Brown stones are not uncommon, especially from South Africa. Pink stones are less common, while ruby ​​red, mauve, and blue stones are rare. Stones with the last of the listed colors usually have a “steel” hue. Sapphire blue diamonds are extremely rare and very expensive.

A number of terms have been used to describe the color of diamonds, such as "yager", "river", "vosselton" and "cape" many of these terms are derived from the names of South African mines. About half a century ago, these "old terms" were largely superseded by purely descriptive definitions, such as "bluish-white", "pure white", "light yellow". However, the term "bluish-white" was considered meaningless and was not recommended for use. German jewelers used a numerical classification of colors from the first to the sixth color. To facilitate the procedure for determining the color of stones, a device was invented that made it possible to directly compare the color of diamonds with standard colors.

In Russia, color characteristics are usually denoted by numbers. Depending on the mass of the diamond, the range of the color characteristic scale is different. So, diamonds with 57 facets and weighing up to 0.29 carats have colors from 1 to 7 groups. Diamonds of the same cut from 0.3 carats and above are divided into 9 groups according to their color shades:

Group number Decryption
Group 1 colorless higher, as well as with a hint of blue
Group 2 colorless
Group 3 with a subtle hint
Group 4 with a slight tinge of yellow
Group 5 with slight yellowish, greenish, aquamarine, violet and gray hues
Group 6 with visible yellow, green, aquamarine, gray and slight brown tints
Group 7 with clearly visible yellow, green, lemon, aquamarine, and gray hues
Group 8 yellow (with yellow, green, lemon color throughout the diamond)
Group 9 brown or yellow-brown

Abroad, different designations for the color of diamonds are accepted. "Diamond World" provides a summary table of standards for assessing the color of stones in various countries. The most common of these is the American Gemological Institute (G.I.A.) color chart.

G.l.A. C.I.B.J.O. I.D.C./H.R.D. U.K. SCAN.D.N.
(up to 0.5 carats)
SCAN.D.N.
(0.5 carats and above)
D Blanc cxeptionnel + Exceptional white+ Finest white Rarest white River
E
Blanc cxeptionnel Exceptional White
F extra blanc + Rare white+ fine white Rare white Top Wescllon
G extra blanc Rare white
H blanc White White White Wesselton
I blanc nuance Slightly tinted white commercial white Slightly tinted white top crystal
J Top Silver Cape Crystal
K blanc legerement teinte Tinted white Silver Cape Tinted white Top cape
L
M Teinte tinted Light Cape Slightly yellowish Cape
N
O Cape yellowish
P
Q
R
S-Z Dark Cape

Clarity of diamonds

Almost all diamonds contain inclusions of non-crystallized carbon or small foreign crystals. Most of them are indistinguishable to the naked eye and multiple magnification is required to detect them. The fewer such inclusions in the stone, the “cleaner” and more valuable the diamond. In other words, the term "clarity" is used to define the absence of defects in the purchased diamond. According to the degree of their purity, diamonds are divided into several groups. Diamonds stand out from clean, through various gradations of imperfect, to the so-called "peak", which contain inclusions that are visible to the naked eye.

In Russia, the characteristics of the quality of diamonds, as well as the characteristics of color, are usually denoted by numbers. Diamonds with 57 facets weighing up to 0.3 carats have a digital designation of clarity from 1 to 9. Diamonds of the same cut from 0.3 carats and above are divided into 12 groups.

As with color, different countries have their own standards for grading diamond clarity.

Table of international standards.

G.I.A. C.I.B.J.O. SCAN.D.N.
Flawless Flawless Flawless
IF - IF
VVS1
VVS2
VVS1
VVS2
VVS1
VVS2
VS1
VS2
VS1
VS2
VS1
VS2
SI1
SI2
SI SI1
SI2
I1 P1 P1
I2 P2 P2
I3 P3 P3

Diamond weight

When evaluating large diamonds, their clarity and color are important. Small stones are judged by weight, not by their individual qualities. In general, the weight of stones plays a major role in determining the value of diamonds.

The unit of measure for the mass of diamonds and polished diamonds is the carat. The word "carat" itself comes from the name of the seeds of the Caribbean tree, which in ancient times served as a natural measure of the weight of diamonds. One carat is 0.2 grams. The carat division scale consists of 100 units.

Small diamonds are considered to have a mass of up to 0.29 carats, medium - from 0.3 to 0.99 carats and large (“solitaires”) - 1 carat or more. Diamonds weighing more than 6 carats are usually sold at auctions.

Small diamonds of various sizes, obtained either by cutting a small rough diamond or by cutting parts of a cut larger gemstone and weighing less than 0.25 carats each, are called melee. The term melange is used to refer to larger stones of various sizes.

Diamonds are valued according to the so-called "Tavernier rule": the cost of a stone is equal to the product of the square of the mass (weight) of the crystal in carats times the base price of one carat. So, a 2-carat diamond costs 3 times more than a one-carat diamond, and a 3-carat diamond costs 10 times more. This "progression" grows up to 5 carats. A 10-carat diamond is valued at 100 times the price of a one-carat diamond. Diamonds over 25 carats are given their own names.

The mass of diamonds is measured with an accuracy of 0.01 carats. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams or 1/5 gram. The mass of diamonds is measured on special carat scales, and approximately it can be determined by the diameter of the stone:

  • Weight 0.03 ct = diameter 2.0 mm;
  • Weight 0.10 ct = diameter 3.0 mm;
  • Weight 0.30 ct = diameter 4.3 mm;
  • Weight 1.00 ct = diameter 6.5 mm;
  • Weight 1.50 ct = diameter 7.5 mm;
  • Weight 2.00 ct = diameter 8.2 mm;
  • Weight 3.00 ct = diameter 9.4 mm.

Diamond cutting

The most popular and most expensive round cut diamonds are K-57. These diamonds have the most brilliant play of all cuts. With strict proportions, a round diamond is able to reflect almost all the light that falls on it.

Fantasy cuts - marquise, princess, heart, pear and others - have a special peculiar appeal and look great in jewelry.

Diamond elements


Top view of a diamond

View of the diamond from below

Diamond cut shapes


Diamond color

Diamonds vary in color from colorless to yellow. To correctly determine the color of a diamond, it is compared with standards and an appropriate index is assigned to it on a color scale. Other colors - fantasy (orange, pink, blue and others), are quite rare.

In accordance with the international G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America), color gradations are characterized by letter designations from D to Z, according to the domestic scale - by numbers from 1 (colorless) to 9 (brown).

Ratio table of diamond color scales

THAT
up to 0.29ct
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
THAT
from 0.30ct
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 (1-5) 6 (1), 9 (1-4)
GIA D E F G H I J K-Z

Clarity of diamonds

Diamonds, like most other minerals, are characterized by natural inclusions and defects.

In order to establish the degree of purity of a diamond, it is necessary to determine the number and nature of defects, as well as their size and location. Examination is performed at 10x magnification with a magnifying glass or a special microscope.

Ratio of diamond clarity scales

THAT
up to 0.29ct
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
THAT
from 0.30ct
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7a 8 9 10 11 12
GIA IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
  • 1 - clean
  • 2-3, 3-4 - very small inclusions
  • 5-6 - very small minor inclusions
  • 7-8 - small noticeable inclusions
  • 9-10, 11, 12 - inclusions visible to the naked eye

Diamond Certificate

Diamond certification is widely used throughout the world. The most famous certification centers are C.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America), E.G.L. (European Gemological Laboratory), I.G.I. (International Gemological Institute).

The certificate is issued on the basis of an independent expert assessment. The gemological laboratory that issued such a certificate guarantees the accuracy and reliability of the information contained in it.

A certificate is a kind of diamond passport, which indicates its individual characteristics: shape, size, proportions, weight, color, clarity, cut and polish quality.

Under Russian law, all loose diamonds entering retail sales must be certified.

Let's try to decipher the designation 2BrKr57 - 0.2ct - 3/5A

It looks like this:

« 2Br" means the number of stones in the product, in this case there are two of them and these are diamonds.

"Kr57" shows the type of stone cut:
"Kr57" - Round 57 faces,
"Kr17" - Round 17 faces,
"Kr33" - Round 33 faces.
There are not only round diamonds, but also other shapes:
"M-55" - marquise cut, elongated stone, somewhat reminiscent of the shape
boats
"G-56" - pear-shaped
"I-57" - "emerald" cut, elongated, rectangular shape
"P-65" - "Princess" square stone with 65 facets

And many others.

0.2 ct - total carat of identical stones. If the stones in the product are of different sizes or purity, then each stone has its own carat.

Carat is a unit of measure for the mass of a diamond and other precious stones. 1 carat = 200 milligrams = 0.200 grams. Large diamonds are much rarer than small ones, so large diamonds are much more valuable. Thus, a 2-carat diamond is worth more than two 1-carat diamonds with the same characteristics. In fact, the value of a diamond tends to rise sharply as the weight of the diamond increases.


« 3/5 "- these numbers mean the qualitative characteristics of the stone. The color is written first, the purity of the stone second.

Color

Diamonds come in a variety of colors, but the more transparent a diamond is in the standard scale, the more expensive it is.
In reality, there are no absolutely colorless diamonds, the term "colorless" describes diamonds that are in the normal color scale.

For the cheat sheet:

Diamonds with a color characteristic of 1 to 4 can be called "absolutely colorless", they have a slight shade of ice-white color.

From 5 to 7 - you can say that they are "colorless", with a slight pearly or smoky tint, visible only in comparison to completely colorless.

Color 8 has a slight sunny yellow tint.

Color 9 is close to coffee color.

It should be noted that there are also fancy shades of diamonds: pink, blue, turquoise.

Purity

Diamonds without visible defects (scratches, marks, minerals and other small characteristics that reduce the quality of diamonds) are more valuable. However, most inclusions are not visible without 10x magnification. Clarity grading is based on the location, size, type, and number of defects found in the diamond.

Diamond Clarity Rating:

Diamonds with a clarity rating of 1 to 4 can be described as "crystal clear" in which no more than three imperceptible natural inclusions are allowed, recognizable only by an experienced gemologist using a microscope with 45x magnification.

Clarity 5-6 is an almost transparent diamond, in which subtle natural inclusions are allowed, recognizable only by a specialist using a sophisticated optical device with 10x magnification.

Clarity 7 is a Clear diamond that allows subtle natural inclusions or subtle changes in structure or subtle graphite inclusions that are visible only in a sophisticated optical device with 10x magnification.

« A "- Cut

The cut of a diamond has the greatest effect on a diamond's brilliance and brilliance. Most gemologists believe that the cut of a diamond is one of its most important characteristics. Width and depth have a significant effect on how light travels into a diamond and is reflected as sparkle. A perfectly good cut reflects light off the top of the stone, bringing out the play of light. If the cut is superficial, then the light is scattered around and the diamond loses its brilliance. If the cut is too deep, then the light disappears at the bottom and the diamond looks dark and dull. Cut "A" is considered the most ideal.


So that the joy of buying is not overshadowed by unpleasant discoveries in the form of a low quality stone, incorrect cut, you need to familiarize yourself with the necessary information regarding which diamond is better to choose.

The first criterion by which this precious stone is evaluated is the purity of the stone. We are talking about the presence in the structure of the stone of various inclusions visible to the naked eye, which are called defects. In a good gem, there are no inclusions, it looks clean and transparent. Therefore, if the question is about which diamond is better to buy - a colored interspersed or colorless, but transparent, no doubt choose the second option.

If you carelessly handle a stone with noticeable defects, it can break into pieces. In the case of buying such a diamond, one should give preference to the one whose inclusions are located in the lower part of the pavilion. A gem, in which obvious defects are concentrated on the upper part (platform), it would be more correct not to buy, because light is refracted in it worse, which means that it will not sparkle like a clean one.

The cost of this stone is determined by the color and clarity, as well as its carat. For example, the price of a processed diamond weighing one carat with the highest rates (1/1 color and transparency) fluctuates between 30-35 thousand dollars, while the cost of a stone of the same carat, but with indicators of 6/12, will be estimated about 1.5 thousand dollars.

A logical question is brewing: what kind of clarity of a diamond is considered good and how to determine it.

Without special magnifying devices and experience, it is impossible to distinguish between a diamond with indicators 1/2 and 3/4. The specialist examines the stone under 10x magnification to assess its transparency, absence of inclusions in the structure and external defects, color. These indicators determine how much the gem will sparkle, its strength, and hence its value.

So what is the best clarity of a diamond?

There are 12 groups of purity indicators. Stones that belong to the 8th-12th have a low cost and, accordingly, quality. The most optimal purchase can be considered diamonds of 6 and 7 clarity groups, which have average values. It is almost impossible to consider visible defects in such a gem, especially if they are located in the lower part and are hidden behind the frame.

Now it is easy to understand which diamonds are considered the best. Those that have a purity group of 1-5. It is almost impossible to consider any shortcomings in them even with a magnifying glass, but the cost of such a stone will also be appropriate. As a rule, the higher the clarity value, the more open the setting should be, and, conversely, minor flaws in the diamond can be hidden with the help of a jewelry setting.

Which diamond cut is the best?

This is the main, but it is not the only indicator that affects the cost of the stone and its appearance.

The jeweler's way of cutting is also important: the number of facets, their symmetry, polishing. A well-made cut reveals all the beauty and charm of the gem, because it determines how the light will be refracted inside it.

To understand which diamond cut is better, you need to understand the types of stone processing and the difference between them. There is a so-called. commercial (B, C) and ideal cut (A). The difference is that when using a commercial diamond cutting process, attention is paid not to ideal proportions, but to less loss in weight and size of the gem. Therefore, the entire diamond may have an irregular shape or only a separate part of it.

The ideal cut focuses on the correct proportions, symmetry, neglecting the loss of weight and size. But, in turn, this increases the cost of a product with a perfectly cut gem. If you look at it from above, you can see the squares, which, intersecting, form a platform (upper part) and arrows. Stones with B and C cuts do not have such a clear picture when viewed from the position from above and from the side.

It becomes obvious which diamond is the best: one that has a high degree of purity and a perfect cut. But the cost of such stones will be high and not accessible to everyone. It is believed that the lighter the diamond, the more ideal shape it should be, and vice versa, on dark ones, errors in the proportions of the faces are not so noticeable.

The parameter that determines the size of the gem is its diameter. Its weight and cut proportions also affect carat. Nowadays, the weight of one metric carat is 200 mg. It is impossible to give a single answer to the question which carats of diamonds are better, because the carat does not affect the quality of the gem, but only its value: the higher the carat value, the more expensive its price will be.

Which color of a diamond is better: color groups

The color of the gem gives it distinctive features, makes it special and unique. Most stones have a slight tint and may appear colorless, as some differences in color tones are difficult to discern with the naked, untrained eye.

Which color of a diamond is better: delicate, light or saturated, pronounced?

Differences in the color of the diamond are best seen from the side of the pavilion. But just this area is eventually hidden behind the frame, and it is impossible to see it. In accordance with the scale, color groups are distinguished:

  1. from 1 to 9-4 (for stones from 0.30 carats): the first three have a cold tint, the last three are warm, almost brown, those located between them - changing from cold colorless to warm yellow;
  2. from 1 to 5 (for gems up to 0.299 carats), where the former are colorless, superior diamonds, and the latter are yellow-brown.

Assess the brilliant color of stones without a rim. With a set gem, it is impossible to correctly determine the shade, because it will be distorted by the color of the metal, dust and particles of fat.

Which diamond ring in gold is better to buy?

Nowadays, a diamond ring is at the top of the wish list of modern girls, and this is not surprising.

But how is the product, what should you pay attention to? Which diamond ring is better to buy, especially if it is a gift?

Small pebbles (about 0.05 carats) look attractive as "constellations": unusual patterns, classic "paths" running through the entire circumference of the ring, resemble star placers, amaze with their gentle radiance.

Rings with a diamond, the weight of which is within one carat, look very beautiful and elegant. The frame minimally holds the stone, the beauty of which can be seen from any side. For this type of product, high-purity gems with an ideal cut are used. But such products are usually not given without a serious reason.

Considering the above, it is easy to understand which gold will “demonstrate” a diamond better: white looks great with colorless, “cold” stones from the first color groups, and red goes well with “warm” ones from the last groups.

With the help of this knowledge, you can independently navigate when buying jewelry with gems. It is difficult to answer unequivocally which diamonds are better to buy. It all depends on the amount that the potential buyer expects. You can buy a piece of jewelry with a stone of high purity, regular cut and large carat, or you can buy a ring with a diamond "track", which will be more affordable, and also enjoy the play of light on these jewelry.

Source: VIBIRAEM.COM How to choose a diamond. Carat, color, clarity, diamond cut

When choosing a diamond, jewelers recommend the rule of four "C", from the English carat (carat, i.e. weight), color (color), clarity (clarity) and cut (cut).
The main indicator, of course, is weight. The more, the more expensive.
A good diamond should be colorless. If a perfectly colored stone is placed in water, it becomes invisible. This is where the concept of “pure water” diamond came from.
The highest class in color is the first. Russian diamonds of medium size usually reach the first or second class.
The purity of the stone is determined by the absence of internal defects - cracks, inclusions. According to the accepted classification, the first class is also the most expensive. In stones with low clarity, defects can be seen through an ordinary magnifying glass. And according to this indicator, average diamonds correspond to grades 3-4.
Cut is a decorative element, but often the buyer's choice. Here, beyond competition - the classic "round" shape. The number of edges must be specified. It is an impossible task for the buyer to independently distinguish a fake diamond from a real one. If the stone is of normal size, the reputation of the store serves as a guarantee of its authenticity. You can order an independent gemological examination.
Question price. If the price tag indicates - 1Kr57-0.24 1/5A - this means: one round stone, 57 facets, weighing 0.24 carats. Its color corresponds to the 1st class, and its purity - to the 5A class. Such a ring costs about 20 thousand rubles.

The leader in Russian sales is a national diamond of 0.1 carats, its price, with average quality characteristics, is around 7 thousand rubles. A diamond of 0.5 carats will pull 140 thousand, and for 1 carat you will have to fork out 500-600 thousand rubles
.
Russian diamond grading system.

The Russian system for grading diamonds is based on technical specifications (TU 117-4.2099-2002) that have been in force since April 2002.

Cut evaluation. The round cut with 57 facets (Kr-57) is accepted as the standard, there is also a round 17-sided cut (Kr-17), which is used for small stones. TU establishes the ranges of geometric parameters of the cut, according to which round diamonds Kr-57 can be divided into groups (in descending order of geometric parameters, symmetry, polishing quality) "A", "B", "C", "G", and Kr- 17 - into two groups - "A" and "B". Diamonds of famous fancy cuts are divided into two groups - "A" and "B". Fancy-cut diamonds with an unconventional number and arrangement of facets belong to the B-cut group.

The weight of a diamond is measured in carats to the second decimal place. To calculate the mass of a stone fixed in a piece of jewelry, special calculation formulas are used.

There are three weight groups of diamonds: small (weighing up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.30 to 0.99 carats) and large - 1 carat and above.

Color rating. Diamonds are classified into color groups from colorless with a gradual increase in saturation of yellow, brown, gray shades. The number of color groups depends on the weight. Small diamonds Kr-17 are classified into 4 color groups (1 - colorless stones). Small diamonds Kr-57 are classified into 7 color groups (1 - colorless stones). Medium and large diamonds are classified into 9 main color groups (1 - colorless stones) (see table), while several subgroups are distinguished in 6, 8 and 9: 6 and 6-1, from 8-1 to 8-5, from 9-1 to 9-4 (for example, 8-2 is a faintly colored yellow, or 8-5 is a yellow). Fancy colored diamonds belong to the first color group. I would like to note that diamonds weighing 1 carat and above with the characteristics of 1/1 are practically not available for sale. Stones with such characteristics are several times more expensive than diamonds with 4/4 characteristics and may not be affordable even for very wealthy people. At the same time, outwardly, 1/1 and 4/4 diamonds do not differ at all from each other.

Cleanliness rating. Diamonds are classified into clarity groups depending on the presence of internal characteristics (inclusions, cracks, surface defects, the elimination of which will lead to significant weight loss), their quantity, location and color (characteristics visible in a 10x magnifying glass are taken into account). The number of purity groups depends on the weight. So, small diamonds Kr-17 are classified into 6 clarity groups, and small diamonds Kr-57 - into 9 groups. For medium and large stones, there are 12 clarity groups (see table). It follows from the table that a diamond with a clarity of 5 on diamonds weighing up to 0.29 carats corresponds to a clarity of 7 for medium and large stones. Those. defects and coloring that are hardly visible to the naked eye are detected only with characteristics of 7/7 (for medium and large stones). A trained eye, without the help of devices, notices defects and chromaticity with characteristics of 6/6. Therefore, when buying large stones, it would be more correct to pay attention to the color and size that catch your eye.

The final grade of a diamond is recorded as follows: for example, Kr-57 0.35 3/4A. This means: a round cut diamond with 57 facets, weighing 0.35 carats, has a 3rd color group, 4th clarity group, cut group - A.

GIA system for grading diamonds.

Cut - the cut of the stone.

The quality of the cut of a diamond is perhaps the most important component of the four influencing the value of a diamond, as a properly cut stone looks very beautiful, it has a bright brilliance and "play". When the diamond is cut correctly, light passes through the crown platform, plays between the pavilion facets, and returns back through the platform, being completely or almost completely reflected from the inner facets. If the cut is unsuccessful, then the light passing through the platform reaches the pavilion facets faster and “leaks” through one of them, or leaves through the opposite lower facet of the diamond without having time to be reflected. The less light that is refracted inside the stone and comes back out, the less sparkle your diamond will have.

Most gemstone experts agree that the best cut diamonds are based on a formula that gives the stone maximum brilliance. These formulas can be understood by examining the proportions of diamonds, but what is more important is how the depth relates to the diameter of the diamond and how the diameter of the platform relates to the diameter of the diamond.

Experts in the field of diamond cut grading have developed a table to help jewelers with which they can give the ideal proportions to a diamond. According to this table, the cut of diamonds (according to GIA) can be divided into the following categories: Ideal (Ideal), Excellent (Premium), Very Good (Very Good), Good (Good) and Benign (Poor).

The ideal cut aims to give the diamond maximum brilliance, and these diamonds usually have a smaller area, which has the added benefit of being able to scatter light more. This cut category only applies to round diamonds. Premium cut round diamonds are equivalent to the Perfect cut with a wider table and slightly modified crown and pavilion angles. Very Fine cut diamonds reflect most of the light that passes through them, creating a reasonable level of brilliance. Diamonds with this cut are obtained as a result of the fact that the cutters deviate slightly from the prescribed proportions of the diamond in order to obtain a diamond that is large enough in weight. As a result, such diamonds have deviations in the size of the platform or the width of the girdle, although in other respects they coincide with the parameters of diamonds of the “Ideal” or “Premium” category. A cut in the “Good” category means that the stone reflects a lot of the light that passes through it. The proportions deviate from ideal, as the choice is made in favor of bigger size diamond when cutting, rather than cutting off everything superfluous to get a small stone of the Premium category.

Clarity - the purity of the stone.

When it comes to the clarity of a diamond, we are referring to the presence of distinctive characteristics on the outside and inside of the stone. While most of these characteristics are inherent in a rough diamond from the earliest stages of crystal formation underground, some of them are the result of the intense pressure that the diamond is subjected to during the cutting process. If you imagine the incredible pressure with which a diamond is born, it is not at all surprising that many diamonds have inclusion cracks, defects, air bubbles and particles of alien mineral rocks, both on the surface and inside the stone. Clarity is assessed at 10x magnification, taking into account the size, number, location and color of internal characteristics, as well as in some cases surface defects that cannot be removed by repolishing without significant weight loss of the stone. Other things being equal, diamonds without intrinsic characteristics are considered more valuable. The GIA grading system distinguishes 11 clarity groups: from “Internally Flawless” - a diamond that has absolutely no defects and inclusions even at 10x magnification, and ending with “Imperfect” - a diamond that has serious defects and inclusions that are visible even to the naked eye. with a look.

F and IF (Flawless and Internally Flawless) - Clean and Internally Clean. These diamonds have no internal inclusions or cannot be detected at 10x magnification. Very rare.

VVS1 and VVS2 (Very Very Small Inclusions) - Barely noticeable inclusions. Very difficult to detect at 10x magnification.

VS1 and VS2 (Very Small Inclusions) - Barely noticeable inclusions. The smallest inclusions are invisible to the naked eye and are difficult to detect at 10x magnification.

SI1 and SI2 (Small Inclusions) - Small inclusions. The smallest inclusions that can be detected at 10x magnification and in some cases (SI2) inclusions are visible to the naked eye.

I1 and I2 and I3 (Imperfect) - Noticeable Inclusions. Inclusions are visible both at 10x magnification and with the naked eye.

Color - the color of the stone.

When talking about the color of a diamond, jewelers usually mean the presence or absence of color in a “white” diamond. The color directly depends on the chemical composition of the diamond and does not change over time.

Due to the fact that a diamond is devoid of color, like transparent glass, it transmits more light through itself than a colored stone, colorless diamonds sparkle more and play with light reflections. Due to the peculiarities of the process of diamond formation, only a few specimens are truly colorless stones. The more colorless the "white" diamond, the higher its value. These rules do not apply to fancy color colored diamonds. Such diamonds have a bright fantasy color - blue, pink, red, yellow, green. They are very rare and their value is several times or even orders of magnitude higher than the cost of “white” diamonds.

When evaluating the colorlessness of diamonds, many jewelers use the GIA Professional Color Chart, which is divided into groups starting with completely colorless diamonds and progressing as the saturation of the yellow hue increases to the last group for yellow colored diamonds. Each group is designated by a letter of the Latin alphabet from D - colorless diamonds to Z - yellow diamonds. The same scale is used to evaluate the color of stones with brown tint, while taking into account the saturation of the brown color. Assessing the color of a diamond comes down to determining the color group. The color of yellow and brown stones with a color characteristic below Z is considered fantasy. Fancy-colored diamonds have their own color groups; when describing such stones, they use the word fancy (fancy), then describe the color and its intensity. A set of standards is used to evaluate the color of diamonds.

Carat weight - weight of the stone in carats.

Carat is a unit of measure used to determine the weight of diamonds. One carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams (200 milligrams). The word "carat" comes from the name of the seed of ceratonia, with which people in ancient times checked the scales. Carob seeds are so small and indistinguishable from each other that even the most modern technology is not able to measure the difference in weight of two seeds in excess of 0.003.

The process of diamond formation takes place only under special conditions, and usually the natural components necessary for the formation of a crystal can only be found in the mountains. Which means that large diamonds are found much less frequently than small ones. For this reason, the price of a diamond rises in direct proportion to its size.

It has long been known that a girl's best friend is diamonds. However, not all diamonds are the same, in any jewelry store you can find seemingly similar jewelry with this gem, the price of which will differ significantly. What affects the value of diamonds? And how to distinguish a quality stone of "noble blood" from a less well-born fellow?

When assessing the quality of diamonds, 4 characteristics are taken into account, the so-called 4Cs: carat (weight), color (color), clarity (transparency, clarity) and cut (cut). For measuring weight diamonds, a special unit is used - carat (1ct = 0.2 g). There is such a thing as "reference weight", the price of stones with this weight can vary significantly, although it is impossible to distinguish diamonds with almost the same weight by eye. These "standards" include stones weighing 1, 3 and 5 carats.. For example, only a specialist can see the difference between a diamond of 0.95 carats and 1 carat, and even then with the use of special equipment.

By weight, diamonds are divided into 3 groups: small (up to 0.29 carats), medium (0.3 - 0.99 carats) and large (over 1 carat). It is worth noting that the weight of small stones is determined not by weighing, but by the diameter of the stone in millimeters.

Diameter (mm) Weight (carat) Diameter (mm) Weight (carat)
,9 0,003 2,7 0,074
1,0 0,004 2,8 0,082
1,1 0,005 2,9 0,091
1,2 0,006 3,0 0,101
1,3 0,008 3,1 0,112
1,4 0,010 3,2 0,123
1,5 0,013 3,3 0,135
1,6 0,015 3,4 0,147
1,7 0,018 3,5 0,161
1,8 0,022 3,6 0,175
1,9 0,026 3,7 0,190
2,0 0,030 3,8 0,206
2,1 0,035 3,9 0,223
2,2 0,040 4,0 0,240
2,3 0,046 4,1 0,259
2,4 0,052 4,2 0,278
2,5 0,059 4,3 0,298
2,6 0,066

Second characterThe truth that affects the value of a diamond is color . In fact, diamonds come in almost every color of the rainbow ( yellow, blue and pink stones are called fantasy), but the stones of the white group are considered classic (and the most valuable). However, this group has its own color gradations - from bluish-white to brown. It is worth mentioning that fancy diamonds do not belong to the white group of stones, and a beautiful yellow diamond will cost much more than the same stone with a yellow tint belonging to the white group.

In fact, most of the diamonds that we see in jewelry stores are not pure white at all, it's just that the human eye is not able to notice small nuances in color shades. The actual color of the stone is indicated on the tag along with the clarity (for example, 3/4 or 4/5), the color value is indicated first. The lower the color value, the more valuable the diamond is. However, stones with characteristics of 1/1 are very rare and cost fabulous money.

There are special tables in accordance with which these numerical characteristics of the color are set, while the weight of the stone also affects these characteristics.

In Russia, numeric values ​​are accepted, while in the West, alphabetic values ​​are used (in accordance with the GIA system developed by the Gemological Institute of America).

< или равно 0,29 ct equal to or > 0.30 ct GIA Description
1 1
2
D
E
bluish white
2 3 F With a subtle hint
3 4
5
G
H
With a slight tint of yellow
Grayish white, yellowish white
4 6
7
I
J
White with a subtle color tint
5 8 (1-5) K-L pale yellowish
6 6 (1) M-N yellowish tint
7 9 (1-4) O-R
S-Z
yellowish tint
yellow

Meaning purity diamond tells how many inclusions are contained in the stone. The lower the number that indicates purity (for example, if the tag says 2/3, then purity = 3). The lower the number indicating purity, the more expensive the stone. The purest diamonds are extremely rare in nature, stones with indicators of 3-6 are considered good (all small inclusions cannot be seen with the naked eye). To determine the purity, there is a table (as with color, in Russia the values ​​\u200b\u200bare indicated by numbers, and letters are used in the GIA system).
< или равно 0,29 ct equal to or > 0.30 ct GIA Description
1 1 IF Clean under a magnifying glass
2
3
2
3
4
VVS1
VVS2
Very, very small inclusions
4
5
5
6
VS1
VS2
Very small inclusions
5
6
7
7a
8
SI1
SI2
SI3
Small noticeable inclusions
6
7
8
9
9
10
11
12
I1
I2
I3
Inclusions visible to the naked eye

The last important characteristic for diamonds is cutting . most popular on today is the so-called "ideal" round cut of 57 facets(33 at the top and 24 at the bottom of the stone). This cut, mathchesky youVerennaya, allows you to achieve the perfect shine to the stone, which, as they say, begins
"play with all sides." Alsoe this formmu cut andsometimes called "Russian" due to the fact that it was popularrna in the USSR and became, as it were, a standard, speaking of a highas a diamond. For small stones, a cut of 17 faces is also used, which makes it possible to significantly reduce the cost of the product, but it does not affect the appearance in the best way. The 17-facet cut is most often used by manufacturers of inexpensive jewelry. There are also various fantasy forms of cuts: marquis (named after the smile of mar
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