We play the bunny Ponechka. Felted bunny - frame toy made of wool using dry felting Easter bunny felting

Felting wool toys is a very entertaining and interesting pastime. As a result of such activities, bunnies, cats, bears and other animals look like real ones.

Materials for each of the hares:

• white carding sliver - 40 g,
• brown washed untreated wool - 10 g,
• black and pink wool - a small amount.

Hares consist of the following primary forms: head, body (torso), ears, hind legs, front legs, tail.

Performance:
1. First, felt the head and body of the hare from a white carding strip. Carefully connect the resulting forms in the neck area with wool fibers, separating them from the carding belt.

3. Now work on the back legs. Felt them entirely from untreated brown wool. You need to make the hare's trained thighs expressive and voluminous. Attach the hind legs to the body and make sure that the hips maintain their volume.
Now it's the turn of the front paws. Felt them in the same way from raw brown wool, and then use a punching needle to attach them to the body of the hare.

4. To make a tail, take white wool, felt a small ball and attach it to the back of the bunny.
To make the ears, start by felting 2 pieces of raw brown wool, each 6cm in size, leaving some of the long fibers at the bottom tips of the ears unfelted. Using the remaining fibers, attach the ears to the head with a punching needle, as you can see in the photo.

5. In this case, making the muzzles will require special meticulousness and careful elaboration: first make indentations for the eyes, nose and mouth, and then decorate these places with colored wool. Felt the pupil out of black wool and then, to make it look more like a live hare, add a little white sheath for a highlight. To highlight the creases of the nose, add a thin line of black wool. Make the inside of the mouth with strands of pink wool and add a pair of teeth. This is how dry felting of wool toys takes place; make the second hare in a similar way, just change the position of its body.

If you want to learn how to make toys from wool, but you don’t yet feel confident that you can handle a new task on your own, then we recommend attending master classes, courses, and lessons on felting from wool. There you will be taught how to create simply amazing things with your own hands: from bright and unusual accessories to items of clothing.

Do DIY toys- this is an extremely exciting activity. You only have to try to make a doll or animal once, and you already understand that this toy is by no means the last. I present to your attention master class on dry felting bunnies named Victoria.

Materials and tools for felting.

• Felting wool (Australian merino): grey, white, pink and red. The colors proposed here are by no means dogma. You can use any that you like.
• Trinity wool.
• Needles for felting: No. 38 (for forming parts of the toy), No. 40 (for smoothing the surface), reverse needle to make the toy fluffy.
• Felting sponge.
• A small button (we will use it to attach the head).
• Needle for sewing soft toys. It can be purchased at craft stores.
• Scissors.
• Threads for attaching the legs and head.

We will first make all the parts of the toy from Trinity wool. It is cheaper than the one we will use to roll the surface. Take a medium sized tuft of wool to felt the head of the toy. In the photographs I tried to capture not only the materials, but also the hands, so that you would have an idea of ​​the size of the tufts of wool and details.

Using a 38 gauge needle, give the head the desired shape.

Using a #40 needle, smooth the surface of the toy's head. From the front side, make the head flat, as shown in the figure:

Take a small tuft of wool. The photo shows what the bun should be relative to the head.

We roll this bundle of wool onto the toy’s face and form the cheeks.

The finished muzzle looks like this:

Now take a small amount of gray wool and roll the surface of the head, thus turning it gray. Roll the cheeks with white wool.

Now let's take care of the body. Take a bunch of Trinity wool and use your hands to shape it into a cone.

On a sponge, using a No. 38 needle, we begin to form the body of the toy. As soon as the tuft of wool begins to take the desired shape, change the needle to number 40. I noticed that when you felt with a thick needle, a void forms inside the mold, and you get a bag. When working with a thin needle, this does not happen and the work looks much neater.

By repeatedly poking in the same place, we form indentations for the paws and head of the toy.

When the body shape is ready, roll it with gray wool.

Now let's return to the muzzle again. Take a small bunch of pink wool and use a sponge to make a small ball out of it. This is the bunny's future nose.

Roll this ball onto the toy's face:

Now that we have the head and torso ready, we will make a hinged mount. Now in craft stores you can buy real joints, like those used in toy factories. But we will use an ordinary button as a hinge. Pull the thread as shown in the photo:

Make a small depression in the head of the toy at the junction with the body; in other words, poke it there many, many times with a felting needle. Place the button in this recess. The thread that is threaded into the button must be long enough.

Take a small bunch of gray wool and use it to roll the button, thus securing it to the head. Leave the ends of the thread outside.

Just as you made a recess for a button on the head of a toy, make recesses on the body where the head and legs are attached.

Using a needle, pull each end of the thread through the body.

After pulling both ends of the thread through the body, pull them and tie a knot, thereby securing the head of the toy.

Use a small tuft of gray wool to mask the ends of the thread.

Now let's take care of the muzzle. Let's make eyes. For this purpose, you can use small black beads. Ready-made eyes can also be purchased at craft stores. For this bunny I made the eyes myself. How? Yes, very simple! I'm sure you can do this too. I have a whole briquette of self-hardening clay. It is not plastic enough to sculpt toys or things with small details from it, but you can make small cakes for the eyes from it. After tearing off a small piece of clay, we make a tablet out of it, let it harden and cover it with black nail polish. That's it, the eyes are ready!

On the face of the toy we select a place for the eyes, make indentations there and glue our pill eyes. Using dark gray wool we create small, raised eyebrows.

Now let's move on to felting the ears. To do this, take two identical tufts of gray wool and, slightly tangling them, give them the shape of ears. I recommend taking exactly two tufts at once, and not felting them one by one, because it is very difficult to judge from a felted product how much wool you need to take to felt the same piece.

We begin to make the ear on the sponge. We do not touch the upper edge (the place where the ear is attached to the head).

Carefully, trying not to injure your fingers, we process the edges of the ear.

Here's what happened:

Use a reverse needle to make the ear fluffy. It is more convenient to do this right now, when the ear is not pressed against the head.

The edges of the ear can be trimmed slightly with scissors.

By analogy we make the second ear. It's okay if the ears don't turn out exactly the same :)

We pin the ears to the head:

This is what the baby looks like:

Let's move on to felting the paws. Take a small bunch of Trinity wool and give it the shape of a paw. To make things go faster, you can felt with several needles at the same time.

Roll the paw in gray wool.

We make the second leg in the same way.

The toy's arms will also be movable. We will need a needle and thread again. Make a knot on the inside of the foot and pull the thread through the body. Since our toy is miniature, the legs are small, here it is enough to just use a thread fastening, without using a button.

We pierce the second leg through and pull out the needle in the opposite direction.

After we secure the thread, there will be indentations on the outer sides of the paws - marks from the threads.

They need to be camouflaged with small tufts of gray wool.

This is what happens at this stage of work:

I looked at our little bunny and decided that it was still necessary to make a mouth. She turns out to be very sad without him. So, using a thin needle we outline the mouth on the muzzle.

Using pink wool we shade the mouth:

There is very little left until the completion of the toy, namely, felting the legs. Take a bunch of wool, the size of which is shown in the photo:

We give the tuft of wool the shape of a small leg:

Lightly fold the upper part of the leg.

We roll the leg with gray wool, leaving the top intact. Leg from different angles:

Our little bunny will be wearing red sandals. To felt them we will need a small amount of red wool. We begin to roll the wool onto the sole.

Then we carefully form the shoe. At this stage, the red wool does not need to be matted before felting.

The shoe is almost ready.

All that remains is to make the strap. To do this, we roll a thin strip of red wool, also tangling it, so that the fiber remains.

Felting wool is a very relevant and interesting type of needlework. Suitable for older children (from ten years old) as well as adults. The technique is very simple, in mastering it is similar to modeling and requires care as the needles are very sharp and can injure your fingers. The wool is screwed in, rolled onto a sponge or polystyrene foam, it takes the shape you need, then you complement it with other blanks and elements.

Wet felting is used to make flat products, for example, various panels, appliqués, scarves, and felt boots. This technique requires a lot of space, water and soap. The wool is laid out on the table layer by layer and each is treated with a soap and water solution, then ironed by hand.

Dry felting requires less space. The formation of the product occurs with less effort, due to repeated piercing with a needle with barbed wool.

Using simple ball shapes as an example, many needlewomen make original beads, which helps hone a basic skill. There are many lessons on making insects, such as butterflies, that will uniquely complement your interior. If you look at simple lessons, you can make your own products such as felt animals, a hare, a bear, etc.

Wool for dry felting: classification

It is necessary to combine wool by color and texture; the shade or thickness you need may simply not be available on sale. Wool can be purchased in the form of carded or combed tape, and this material is also divided according to several criteria.

Namely:

• Can be from different animals (camel, sheep, goat);
• By color (natural and dyed);
• With shine (angora and mohair) without it;
• Thin (for external work) and thick (to create a base for the product);
• Rough (felt felt) and soft.

Since needle marks form on thin wool during the felting process, and this affects the appearance of the final product. Carded - tangled fibers that resemble cotton wool, quickly fall off. Rowing tape - individual fibers collected into a tape. This technique produces interesting animals: a bunny or a bear, as well as a butterfly.

Dry wool felting for beginners

For the work you will need materials: carded card of any color, ribbon wool of different colors, felting needles No. 36, 38, 40, sponge and pastel or pencils and a brush for tinting.

Where to begin:

1. To begin, draw a sketch of the figure. You can draw a bird or a butterfly of different animals, decorations. It will be easier to divide any product into the parts it consists of if it has a sketch.
2. The drawing is ready, then divide it into simple shapes, the body, for example, is a large ball, and the head is smaller, and so on, ears, tails, paws.
3. We take the wool and divide it in different directions until a uniform texture is formed. The amount of wool depends on the size of the craft, but it will decrease during the compaction process.
4. Using a thick needle, we first roll the wool into a ball, using our fingers to shape the desired shape, then change the needle to a medium one.
5. We compact the workpiece until all voids disappear.
6. We supplement the base; if it does not turn out the way it should be, we apply a piece of wool to the missing part and carefully use a needle to first go in a circle, and then polish the surface with a thin needle.
7. If paired parts are needed, then they need to be made at the same time. We divide the wool into equal parts. Then we simultaneously felt two parts, alternately comparing them with each other.
8. Small parts require special care. We take a thin needle and outline the outlines on the surface. Then it is better to take a cross-shaped needle, we go along the contours, thereby correcting surface unevenness and compacting the workpiece.
9. If you need to bend the workpiece, bend it between your fingers, and then use a middle needle to pass through the bend several times to fix it in this position.
10. The parts are connected to the main workpiece using safety pins. We fix each part and separately in a circle we roll them to the base.

We hide the unevenness of the joint by adding small pieces of wool and carefully go over them with a thin needle. These are the basic techniques that are used in the manufacture of felt products.

How to felt a wool ball: dry felting

In order to obtain a ball by threading, we will need: a special needle in the shape of the letter L with medium and fine notches, wool (for example, mohair), a rug (foam rubber backing). When all the tools are ready, protect your fingers with rubber thimbles.

Suitable for dry felting are Russian wool "Troitskaya" (thin, semi-fine) "Semyonovskaya" "Pekhorka" (thin, semi-fine)

Let's start making the ball:

1. Take a piece of wool from a common skein and rub it between your palms to form a tight cylinder.
2. Then we insert a needle into the cylinder perpendicular to the substrate and, with quick up and down movements, compact the inside of the workpiece.
3. We turn the needle in a circle, continuing the movements up and down, the ball will be compacted, the upper surface will be leveled.
4. In the process, we replace the needle with a thinner one and continue dropping until the ball stops deforming.

If paired parts are needed, then they need to be made in parallel. We divide the wool into equal parts. Then we simultaneously felt two parts, alternately comparing them with each other.

Simple dry felting from wool: master class

This master class will be dedicated to animals. The techniques shown in several examples will help you understand how easy it is to make any complex figure from simple ones.

Bullfinch

Materials for work:

• Felting sponge;
• Fine, medium and thick needles;
• 50 grams of coarse wool;
• Red, black, white wool for lining;
• Clear varnish;
• Plastic;
• Super glue.

The manufacturing technology is as follows. We form a ball from coarse wool and roll it with a needle. Next we form the neck and tail. We add color to the resulting workpiece and place colored wool on the workpiece with a thin needle.

Add more red fur on the belly, head, back and wings. We make the tail separately from the body, put a small strand on a sponge, then perform rectangular felting, leaving small pieces.

We pin the finished tail to the bird with a middle needle. The eyes and beak are made of plastic and glued to the finished bird. Cover the eyes with varnish. The bullfinch is ready, you can decorate the interior with it.

Bunny or rabbit

Materials for making a bunny:

• Light fine wool;
• Needles No. 36, 38

Manufacturing technology. The wool needs to be fluffed, and then we begin to felt from the center to the edge, we form one larger ball - this will be the body, then we feel a smaller ball - this will be the head. The workpiece should be loose. We fold the head to the body diagonally, adding small pieces of wool to the joint.

We form the bunny's eye sockets. Separately we dump two balls, then we roll them symmetrically to the eye sockets.

We make a nose from a piece of wool and connect it with the cheeks that we made before. We make another ball - this will be the chin and attach it under the cheeks. We put the bunny in order and add wool for a more accurate shape and proportions. We form the lower legs and check for symmetry. We make the front legs separately, deform them a little, then roll them into place.

Then we finalize the little animal. We roll the tail. No. 38 irregularities are encrypted and excess hairs are removed. We glue the eyes with glue and remove the eye sockets. We form the eyelids separately and place them on the eyes. We make the ears separately using horizontal felting, give them the desired shape and bend, then connect them to the head. We add facial expressions using a thin needle, tint the ears and eyes.

Dry felting from wool for beginners (video)

For beginners who want to master such a beautiful and sweet felt art, the most important thing is patience and perseverance. In fact, making animals is not as difficult to master as it seems. For example, in the same way as the bunny was made, you can make a bear. Also, using the example of the bullfinch, other birds can be made.

A felting lesson in which we will create a beautiful felted toy Bunny. The scheme can be purchased here for 120 rubles:...... From the author Panpina Schoo.... Added 4th year. back.

Take a piece of wool and fluff it well. We start felting with a coarse needle (No. 36). The bunny will be pure wool, because... We will process it with a needle with a reverse tooth, which pulls out the wool fibers and produces a fluffy effect. At this stage, the needle should go as deep as possible so that the wool feels inside the workpiece.

The output is an oval workpiece with a loose surface for further processing. This will be the base of our bunny's body.

Notice how loose the workpiece is; it can be crushed with your fingers.

We felt a smaller ball, this will be the bunny's sternum. We roll it diagonally to the main body piece.

For thorough fastening, add wool to the joint.

We do the same with the head.

Add wool to the back, you need to form a small hump. We still stick the needle deep.

Be sure to form the eye sockets while the head is still loose. Then we will glue beads there.

Separately we dump 2 small balls, these will be the jowls of the muzzle.

We roll it symmetrically to the eye sockets.

We extend the nasal septum by adding a small piece of wool.

Add fur to the cheeks.

We dump a small pea and place it on the place of the chin.

Now we fall evenly on all sides. If you feel that there is not enough volume somewhere, add more.

Add wool for the hind thighs.

We carefully form the volumes, symmetrically, on both sides.

Separately, we dump the paws themselves. Immediately take an equal amount of wool on both feet and felt it in parallel.

We form a plane from the bottom side. In this place we poke the needle more diligently.

We put the paws in their places.

We admire what we have achieved.

If there are any shortcomings, we correct them immediately. And we definitely follow the form.

Once again we pay attention to the hump; if it is too small, add fur now.

In the same way as the hind legs, we fold the front ones. They imply a bend, we form it by holding the foot between the fingers.

The same thing, closer to the shoulder.

We place the legs symmetrically in the appropriate places.

Add wool to the joint.

This is what she is, our sweetheart. Still without ears and eyes, but already so dear and sweet.)))

Also, place the tail between the fingers, its tip should be sharp.

Let's roll it to its rightful place.))

Let's start surface treatment - “grinding”. We “sand” only in those places where fluffiness is not implied. The rest will not be visible. There are not so many of these places: the belly, the front part of the muzzle, the paws and the bottom. We often go over the surface with a thin needle (No. 38), removing all the unevenness and imperfections. Be patient, the process is quite long.

We “grind” very carefully in the recesses.

It's time to glue on the beady eyes. For this I use moment-crystal glue. We drip glue into the recesses of the eye sockets so that the fur absorbs it a little.

We wait a little and plant the beads deeply, pressing them together with our fingers.

We remove all excess around the eyes.

It's time to form the eyelids; to do this, we dump 2 tiny blanks.

Carefully place the eyelid tightly on top of the bead.

As much as possible, and just as carefully - compact

We emphasize the shape of the eyes.

We are working on everything that is nearby.

We will roll the ears on a sponge; any that is at hand will do, only a clean one, and not one that has already been washed the dishes or the car.) We take 2 identical pieces of wool and lay them out on a sponge. We felt over the entire plane, watching the shape. If you feel that there is not enough fur somewhere, you can add, if there is too much, remove it. Periodically turn the workpieces over.

Very carefully, between the fingers, we process the edges. We roll all the hairs into the structure of the ear.
Be sure to leave the fur loose where the ear will attach to the head.

We form a bend.

Using the fluff that was left, we pin the ear to the back of the bunny’s head.

Add fur to the joint.

In the same way we roll the 2nd eye, only according to the idea it is lowered down. Our bunny is a cunning Skoda, so only one ear sticks out mischievously on the top of her head.

Before you start tinting the ear, you need to go along its edges and back with a needle with a reverse tooth. This is necessary so that the needle does not pull out the tinted fur and stain the back side.
If you don't have a reverse tooth needle, sand the entire surface of the bunny.

Because The master class is simplified, we will not use paints, because... you simply may not have them. Let’s take ordinary cosmetics that any woman has.) Men, shake the cosmetic bags of your wives and girlfriends!))

Using a soft brush, dry, carefully apply the tone from dark to light.

Using a thinner brush, we go over the darkest shade in the recesses. The nose is touching pink.)

We also carefully tint the recesses above the upper eyelids.

Blush on the cheeks. They will give the bunny a New Year's mood, a kind of frosty blush.)

We go through all the places that have not been sanded with a needle with a reverse tooth.

On the back side.)

Here it is, our New Year's sweet, which will warm and touch even the hardest heart.