Types, styles and types of men's suits. Types and styles of men's suits: all models and styles with their names What are men's suits

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Not the last place in the men's wardrobe is such a thing as a suit. Almost every man has worn it at least once in his life. There are many types of costumes that differ in cut, model or purpose.

Cut

Among all types of tailoring, the following stand out:

English

This cut is suitable for men with a slender body and is a classic strict option. The jacket can be either single-breasted or double-breasted, have a low waist, two or three buttons, slanted pockets and two vents at the back. It is worth noting that this cut is not suitable for large men.

German

The cut has a loose, even slightly baggy shape. Suits of this cut are made of a special wrinkle-resistant material.

European

Jackets of this cut, just like the English cut, are suitable only for slender men and are a bit reminiscent of a slightly modified suit of a classic cut. There are both single-breasted and double-breasted options.

American

Suitable for men of large build, but only for informal meetings. Jackets with such tailoring are slightly fitted in the hip area, they do not have shoulder pads, and such jackets are also slightly shorter than European cut.

Italian

Suitable for men of any physique, fits the figure. The jacket has two slots and three buttons, and is sewn in a single-breasted or double-breasted version.

French

Suits of this cut are sewn wide, short, with a narrow hip line. Ideal for short men.

Model

As for jacket models, there are only three types:

single breasted

It has buttons on one side and slots for them on the other.
Jackets of this model are the most common, according to statistics, they are worn by about 80% of men. This popularity is due to the fact that such jackets are quite versatile and can be worn both for business meetings and in an informal setting.

double breasted

In a business setting, this jacket model is most preferable, and it is perfect for tall men. A number of buttons are located both on one side and on the other side.

Three piece suit

As the name implies, it includes three pieces of clothing: trousers, a jacket and a vest. This model appeared at the dawn of the 20th century and looks very presentable. More suitable for formal occasions.

Purpose

Business meetings

In this case, a business suit is worn, having one of the above cuts. Such costumes are distinguished by strictness and discreetness.

Suits for an informal setting

These suits are convenient in that they can be worn every day, while they are relatively simple and much less rigorous, unlike the classic ones. Among them, two types stand out: Fashion items are costumes made from a material that is not characteristic of the classics, for example, cotton or silk.

They are also called "one-season" suits and they are suitable for going to parties and clubs. The second type is casual, more formal, sewn from traditional materials and suitable for everyday wear, walks or weekend informal events. Such suits can be worn without a tie and with the buttons unbuttoned.

For formal and ceremonial occasions

Among them are a tuxedo, tailcoat and the so-called "business card suit".

The tuxedo

A black jacket with long silky lapels and an open chest, the same black wide trousers and a waistcoat or sash called a "cummerband".

In ancient times, this jacket was worn by a man of high society in order to retire to smoke in a special room, and then take it off, which is why it has such a name. Now his appointment has changed, and he is put on ceremonial events.

tailcoat

This costume is also worn on gala evenings. The short jacket has long tails at the back. He wears a white starched shirt and a white bow tie, as well as black shoes. Tight pants with a high waist belt is not worn. In addition to this, a white handkerchief is usually placed in the breast pocket and white gloves are put on.

Business card

This suit was popular as casual wear in the 19th century. The jacket has sides tapering to the bottom, its length is shorter in front than in the back, it is fastened with one button. Since it is a three piece suit, it is worn with a vest, striped trousers and black boots, paired with a white shirt and black bow tie.

As you can see, there are many situations when you can wear a suit, which once again proves its versatility and relevance even in the modern world.

2016-10-27

It is impossible to imagine a modern man without a business suit. The classic suit consists of trousers, a jacket, a shirt and a tie. Sometimes it is also supplemented with a vest. The jacket and trousers are sewn from the same fabric or from the same type of fabric and similar colors.

The history of men's costume goes back to the Middle Ages. It was brought to Europe by the crusaders, or rather it was a buttoned caftan, and it became the prototype of the modern costume. Caftans fell in love with the nobility, and all the upper classes wore them with pleasure: long and short, double-breasted and single-breasted, from a variety of fabrics.

The costume in the modern sense appeared in England in the 19th century. It included a reddingote, a shirt and long trousers. The evening option was a tailcoat. Mandatory accessories were a top hat and gloves.

In the twentieth century, the costume has undergone significant transformation, adapting to the rhythm of life.

Modern men's suits can be divided into three areas: solemn (tailcoat, business card or tuxedo) is designed for evening events. Classic or business consists of a jacket and trousers. A business suit is sewn from one type of fabric, mostly wool High Quality. Informal suits used to be worn for a walk or a trip, but now with the relaxation of the dress code, they can be seen in offices. This is a simplified version of the classic suit. They use simple fabrics and different colors. Another feature of informal suits is the ability to combine trousers and jackets of different colors.

Also, the suits differ in the cut of the jacket and the number of buttons. A one-button suit is called a single-breasted tuxedo and is most often worn by representatives of show business. A suit with a two-button jacket, depending on the cut, can belong to both a business suit and a sports style. The jacket is always fastened with one button. A three-button jacket is applicable in formal and informal suits. The third button is always covered by the lapel, and the buttonhole is finished on both sides. The bottom button is never fastened. Four-button jackets are commonly called "cardigan jacket" or "sweater jacket", such jackets are informal.

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PHOTO Matthew Brookes/trunkarchive.com

A man's wardrobe starts with a suit in the same way that a theater starts with a hanger and a popular nightclub starts with face control. Only at first glance it seems that the suit is a boring thing. Only those who do not know how to wear them think so. There are hundreds of options for a classic suit and combinations of its details - in all the variety you need to find the one that suits you. In order to accurately determine the correct model, ask yourself a few questions.

So what do you need the suit for and what do you want to tell them? Where will you go in it? For a wedding? To work? Or, maybe, on a friendly picnic (yes, a real dandy will certainly put on a suit for a picnic; and if this is a meeting of gentlemen, then an informal summer suit will be quite in place)? Do you want to make a million dollar impression, or is your goal a trendy, flashy look that will make you stand out from the crowd? The king of men's English fashion, Sir Paul Smith, says: “The most common mistake that I notice is the desire to keep up with fashion, as well as the discrepancy between clothing and person. You must study yourself well, know your height and complexion, take into account age and lifestyle.

All you need in your wardrobe is a nice dark suit, tie, the perfect black tuxedo, blazer, jeans, and a pair of perfect shoes." Tom Ford

A classic suit is primarily a jacket and trousers made of the same fabric. A three-piece suit (in this case, a vest is added to the jacket and trousers) is a more formal option, suitable for especially formal occasions. Two-piece suits are comfortable and versatile. The jacket and trousers can be worn together - with or without a shirt and tie - for informal gatherings and events. The two can be divided by combining its “halves” with other wardrobe items: a jacket with trousers of a different color or jeans, trousers with a shirt and a vest or with thin knitwear.

Modern fashion allows - and even welcomes - the combination of dress pants with a polo shirt and colored socks (as the stylists of fashion men's magazines do). However, such experiments require sufficient experience and a certain courage.

The ideal costume fabric is wool, 100% or mixed with cotton, silk, linen. But a suit made of synthetics quickly begins to shine on the folds, does not allow the skin to breathe, and it looks, what can I say, cheap. It is because of such unsuccessful instances that many people think of the suit as uncomfortable and stuffy clothing.

The classic colors of the costume are shades of blue and gray. Cold shades slim, favorably emphasize the figure and are suitable for almost everyone. It is easy to pick up a shirt in blue or lilac tones for them. A black suit is appropriate at a wedding, funeral, or event preceded by an invitation with a mysterious black tie mark (we'll talk about dress code rules below). The white suit is suitable either for gangsters, or - provided that it is sewn from thin linen - for oligarchs going on a boat trip on their own yacht. The main thing to remember when choosing a suit is that it must be true to size, and ideally fitted to the figure by a professional tailor. A perfectly fitting suit - even if it is crimson - will open any door for you.

Classic costume rules

Comments by Mikhail Nazarov, manager of the Moscow boutique Raschini on Nikolskaya, 10

1 The main thing is that the suit sits!

Mikhail Nazarov The correct fit of the suit is a guarantee that it will emphasize the dignity of your figure and hide the flaws, and therefore, an important factor influencing the perception of your person. Each person is unique, so the perfect suit must be made to order.

ELLE for Man If you are not yet ripe for individual tailoring, do not be too lazy to spend time fitting the finished suit to your figure - this service is free in good costume shops.

2 Length theory

M.N. The length of the jacket and trousers largely determines the appearance and perception of the suit as a whole. The sleeve should open the shirt by one and a half centimeters, and the "accordion" on the trousers is unacceptable!

ELLE for Man After putting on your jacket, put your hands in your pants pockets. If the floors of the jacket do not interfere - the choice is right.

3 important little things

M.N. It is hard to imagine a sophisticated suit without such integral details as open buttonholes on the sleeves or hand stitching. These little things confirm the prestige of the costume, and handmade gives it better fit.

ELLE for Man In a suit, all details must be functional. A theater ticket and a credit card will fit in special ticket-pocket pockets, everything else is usually kept in a briefcase or bag.

4 Fit exactly

M.N. There are three types of men's suits: American - for a tall and athletic figure, English - for narrow-shouldered and tall, European - the most versatile. A competent consultant will help you choose the right size.

Elle for man Ready-made suits are sewn according to different patterns - based on the height and proportions of a person. Even if you are sure that your figure is perfect, do not buy a suit without trying it on.

5 Attention to detail

M.N. Finding “your” tailor is a great success, akin to meeting a personal doctor, psychologist, etc. This should be a person who subtly feels your mood and desires, comparing them with the spirit of the times and modern fashion trends.

ELLE for Man Every self-respecting man should one day have a suit tailored to his measurements. This is not such an expensive pleasure as it seems, especially since with proper care such a suit will last for many years.

6 Seasonal approach

M.N. As the British say, "there is no bad weather, but there are wrong clothes." Of course, the material of the costume should be chosen according to the season. In spring and summer, choose lighter fabrics (thin wool with the addition of silk, linen and cotton), in autumn and winter - dense, textured materials (flanel, thick wool, cashmere, mohair).

A real man thinks about buying this wardrobe item, presumably when the time comes to emphasize wealth and manhood.

Let's assume that the purchase decision is made, the budget is allocated, and all you need to do is go to the store and buy a suit of the right style, style, color and size. And this is where a lot of questions arise and it turns out that few people in your environment know exactly what this product should be like so that it decorates its owner.

What are the basic rules to know when choosing a suit?

First of all, it is important to correctly determine the purpose of the purchase and answer some questions:

What product do I need?
Do I need a suit to wear in winter, summer or off-season?
Is this a casual, office or special occasion suit?
Do I need a suit for formal, serious meetings or evening?
Should it be strict or loose?

It may seem surprising, but small details provide information about the “correct” suit: seams, stitching and pockets. Higher-quality suits have strong seams, silicone tape on the inside of the trousers so that the shirt does not constantly pop out, stitching on the sides with a special seam (stitching) that prevents deformation, and many other details that tell the connoisseur that he was not mistaken with the choice of brand.

The most expensive suits, as a rule, are made with high quality even in the most inconspicuous places, for example, under the lapels (flare at the joints with the lining) and inside the pockets.

Look at what the buttons are made of. In premium suits, they are usually made from natural materials (bones or horns). Wooden or plastic buttons are used in suits of a low price category.

Basic models of men's suits

If you need a 100% aristocratic and business option, then look for an English classic suit, another name for it is Savile row(after the name of the old handicraft quarter of tailors). It is strict, has multiple details that will help emphasize the broad masculine line of the shoulders and back, give the owner a sense of stateliness, he “draws” an insufficiently athletic, but at the same time proportional figure. There should be no violations in the figure, a long torso and short legs.

Italian men's suits or, as they are called, modernized European, can be divided into two categories: North Italian and South Italian. The north of Italy is more strict than the south, which could not but affect the style of the costume (by the way, not only for men). The northerners' costume is conceptually similar to the English costume, but is more fitted, has a clear line of shoulders and fairly straight trousers.

The suit of the south of Italy is not so strict and official, it is more free and comfortable, it is also suitable for men with good proportions of the figure, ideal for wearing in the warm season; imposing, dapper, without a clear line of the shoulder and silhouette.

german cut like american sack(name of the cut of the suit) is sewn soundly, freely, due to which it is unofficial and a little sloppy. Such a suit has a rounded silhouette, which suggests a man with a tummy. It is comfortable, has no padding in the shoulders and allows you to roll up the sleeve.

How to choose fabric for a suit?

When choosing a suit for a particular season, pay attention to the parameters that are indicated on the nameplate sewn under the inside pocket in letter and numeric equivalent. Let's say it says: SUPER 220's. What does it mean? The word SUPER denotes fabrics made from good woolen or cashmere threads without synthetic additives.

Super 100's - Super 150's is a daily wear fabric;
Super 150's - Super 180's are demi-season fabrics;
Super 180's- Super 220's are fabrics for formal occasions, evenings or special occasions.

The letter S (spesore, translated from Italian as "density") denotes the density of the thread's torsion:

up to 250 g / m 2 - summer costume fabric;
260-280 g / m 2 - fabric for the off-season;
330-400 g / m 2 - winter dense fabric.

Blended fabrics with a slight addition of synthetic threads are suitable for the so-called "business travel" options, that is, a suit for business trips and frequent trips in a car while driving.

How to choose a suit style?

The reference point is the male's proportions in terms of balance and overall body weight. If the male silhouette has a straight line of shoulders, wide enough in relation to the hips, proportional to the length of the torso in relation to the legs, then a wide range of basic male models can be afforded. But! If you have a non-standard silhouette, then the suit will have to be customized in the atelier.

Shortening a jacket if you have short legs is very unsafe: the pockets will be out of place, the general proportions will be violated. Therefore, if a man has a non-standard figure, an important event is taking place, or you are a fan of impeccable quality, then it makes sense to pay attention to bespoke suits, that is, to order using completely manual labor.

Individual tailoring, careful selection of fabrics and individual style, and, as a result, the admiration of those around you - this is what tailoring a suit is all about. Such work does not mean ordering a suit from a familiar seamstress or in an atelier for the mass consumer, but working in a special atelier where they specialize only in sewing a men's suit.

In a bespoke suit, all layers are carefully stitched by hand, giving the jacket an individual shape that matches the client's figure.

How to choose the color of the suit?

Traditionally, there are three basic colors of the suit, which are chosen according to the level of conservativeness of the situation. Black is considered ceremonial and is only suitable for large celebrations. In this color of a suit it is indecent to appear at work in the morning, especially if your position is not high enough. Dark blues are optimal for a formal setting, they are out of season and almost universal. Gray shades must be chosen very carefully and correlated with the skin color of a man: the darker the hair and skin, the lighter the gray can be.

The nuances of choosing the perfect suit are actually even more than I managed to tell you. But I think that many people today will want to go shopping for men's suits and try on the knowledge that has appeared after reading this article. The choice will definitely become easier!